South Island, New Zealand: A 14-Day Road Trip from Queenstown to Christchurch
It’s been a little more than a week since I returned from New Zealand’s South Island, and honestly, putting the experience into words feels like a monumental task. How do you summarise two weeks of breathtaking landscapes, unexpected encounters, and moments so surreal they feel like a dream? No matter how I write it, I worry I won’t do it justice—but I’ll try.
This well-trodden route took us through iconic spots like Queenstown, Wanaka, and Mount Cook, with charming stops in French Farm/Akaroa before culminating in Christchurch—all of which I'll delve into further.
Researching the Route
If you’ve ever researched a self-drive itinerary for New Zealand, you know how overwhelming it can be. There are endless options: North Island loops, cross-country adventures, or deep dives into the South Island alone. My starting point was the incredibly detailed guides from Petrina Darrah’s blog, a goldmine for NZ travel itineraries and tips.
As someone who used to work in graphic and digital product design, I approach trip planning the same way I used to tackle creative projects—start broad, then refine. I scoured at least five blogs, watched a dozen YouTube videos, and saved every useful tidbit I could find. What struck me, and what I aim to convey in this blog, is how each experience, while often overlapping, held its own unique flavour. I gathered these nuggets of information, connected similar threads, and sketched out a basic route as my initial template. From there, I zoomed in, pinning down intriguing locations that beckoned along the way.
The final route selection can feel like a high-stakes decision. There's always that nagging fear of missing out on a "must-see" or not quite maximising my time in a particular place. To help refine our itinerary and decide on durations in each location, I also explored the diverse experiences offered by Viator. Ultimately, our journey took shape like this:
Why We Flew into Queenstown (and Our First Business Class Experience!)
We flew into Queenstown via Auckland—partly because it’s the adventure capital of NZ, but mostly because it was the only Business Class reward flight available with our Singapore Airlines miles.
And let me tell you: If you ever get the chance to fly Business Class with Singapore Airlines, do it. Lie-flat seats, an extensive menu you get to pre-select from, and enough movies to outlast a zombie apocalypse—for the first time in my life, I wished the flight were longer.
Starting in Queenstown also had a strategic upside: we tackled the adrenaline-packed activities first while our courage was still intact. Because let’s be real—I’m in my thirties now, and while I still crave the occasional adrenaline rush of leaping into the void, a part of me is undeniably a scaredy-cat who just wants to get these out of the way.
Queenstown: Where Adventure Meets Unpredictable Weather
April in Queenstown is a sweet spot—autumn’s golden hues linger, winter’s chill hasn’t fully set in, and the crowds thin out. But fair warning: this is still New Zealand, where the weather writes its own rules. Our flight from Auckland was delayed 30 minutes by fierce winds, a fitting introduction to the South Island’s untamed spirit.
Arriving in Queenstown around 7:30 pm, we swiftly collected our rental car (a smooth after-hours pickup with Apex) and headed to The Central Private Naumi Hotel for our three-night stay. I recommend this hotel for its fantastic central location, free roadside parking, and a complimentary minibar—a delightful bonus!
The next morning, our Shotover Canyon Swing + Jet Boat combo hit a snag: heavy rainfall had swollen the river, making jetting through the narrow passages impossible. Cue the first lesson of South Island travel:
“Your best-laid plans will bow to the weather. Adapt or implode.”
You can pre-book every activity, map every scenic stop, but if the skies decide otherwise? Game over. My advice:
- Build buffer days (or at least flexible afternoons)
- Get a SIM card with international calls—many businesses call with last-minute changes
- Embrace the chaos. Some of our best memories came from Plan Bs.
Undeterred, we proceeded with the Canyon Swing, and what a way to kickstart our day! Still reeling from the adrenaline from the 60m freefall, we opted for a more relaxed afternoon, soaking in the stunning scenery around Shotover. Our next stop was the luge, where we spent a good 2-3 hours zipping down the two routes. It was genuinely amusing to watch even the most rugged-looking guys playfully competing on their luges. Honestly, the luge is a fantastic activity for almost any age group looking for some pure, unadulterated fun.
Another highlight of our Queenstown stay was a delightful wine tour in the Central Otago region One of my absolute favourite aspects of traveling is connecting with new people, and small group day tours like this are the perfect avenue for that. Plus, it offers a welcome break from being behind the wheel, especially if you appreciate having someone else navigate for a while. It's all about that perfect mix!
This particular tour was a winner, partly due to the delightful presence of alcohol and our incredibly cool and knowledgeable guide (a recurring theme with guides in the South Island, we noticed!). But equally important was the fantastic company of the other people on our tour—the conversations flowed as freely as the wine!
Wanaka: Where Plans Fall Apart (And That’s Okay)
Leaving behind the adventure hub of Queenstown, our drive took us over the scenic Crown Range pass towards the tranquil shores of Wanaka. A mandatory stop along the way was the iconic Cardrona Hotel, a charming spot to stretch our legs with a refreshing drink and a bite to eat.
As we arrived in Wanaka, we were greeted by a picturesque scene at our lovely Airbnb—an archway of trees leading to the property, accompanied by the enchanting melodies of Tuis and Bellbirds. This idyllic setting would be our haven for the next two nights.
While social media might have you believe Roy’s Peak at sunrise is mandatory, we opted for sanity instead. Here’s what we loved instead:
- Glendhu Bay Track: An easy lakeside amble where the water shifts from cobalt to emerald by the hour
- Mt. Iron: A 1.5-hour loop with panoramic views of the Southern Alps
Our primary anticipation for Wanaka centered on a breathtaking scenic flight and cruise to the famed Milford Sound. Alas, the capricious weather of the region intervened once more, leading to the cancellation and full refund of our much-awaited tour. Though naturally disappointed, we embraced this as part of the Wanaka experience and swiftly pivoted to Plan B: an adventurous drive towards the Rob Roy Glacier, traversing unpaved roads and even a few fords (Thank goodness for our robust SUV!) Upon arrival at the trailhead, the heavens opened, so we made a U-turn back to town, seeking refuge and warmth in some hot meals from the local food truck park, which we happily enjoyed back at our cozy Airbnb. Silver lining? The weather gods took pity on us afterward, and Sunshine followed us for the rest of the trip.
Mount Cook, and a Lesson in Kiwi Patience
A gateway to Mount Cook, Twizel is a great place to base yourself. It is a blink-and-you’ll-miss-it town 20 minutes drive from Mount Cook, but our Airbnb was a gem—walking distance to a few dining options, as well as a Four Square supermarket to stock up on groceries. Pro tip: get ingredients here for a sandwich to take along on your hike.
The day we arrived, we opted to do short hike to Kea Point, hoping to catch a glimpse of the elusive alpine parrot. Did I mention we've become rather enthusiastic birdwatchers on this trip? Excuse me while I scour the internet for a good pair of binoculars. The sheer variety of fascinating birds endemic to the region, and the added challenge of identifying their calls and spotting them definitely elevated our hiking experience. No luck with the parrots, but we were warmly greeted by a Tomtit, serenaded by numerous bellbirds, and spotted a majestic wood pigeon.
The following morning, we arrived at the trailhead for the iconic Hooker Valley Track around 9:30 am. Even in the off-peak season, the parking area was starting to fill up, requiring a bit of creative manoeuvring to secure a spot. The Hooker Valley Trail is a relatively long but easy and flat hike, allowing you to fully immerse yourself in the breathtaking scenery without breaking much of a sweat. The trail culminates at a stunning glacial lake, the perfect spot to enjoy a packed lunch. I highly recommend this trail to anyone visiting Mount Cook.
🚨UPDATE: As of 23 April 2025, the second bridge on the popular Hooker Valley Track in Aoraki/Mount Cook National Park has been permanently closed due to ongoing riverbank erosion exacerbated by weather events. While this temporarily limits access beyond the first swing bridge, a new, longer, and more resilient suspension bridge is under construction and expected to open in autumn 2026 (Source)
The journey from Mount Cook to our next stop in Methven, where we would spend a night to break up an otherwise long drive, involves a single, stunning road: State Highway 8. On the morning of our departure, we encountered a sobering scene—a significant accident involving a car and a flipped campervan had brought traffic to a standstill for a couple of hours. While the delay was inconvenient, the prompt response of the rescue services was commendable.
An equally noteworthy observation during this unexpected pause was the collective patience of the drivers. There was no frustrated honking, just a quiet acceptance that something unfortunate had occurred and that this was simply a part of life. People exited their vehicles, not in anger, but to understand the situation and likely relay information to those behind them who were still in the dark. This stood in stark contrast to the impatient honking that often characterises traffic inconveniences here in Singapore, even with just a couple of cars backed up. It was a gentle reminder to be more understanding of circumstances beyond our control.
French Farm/Akaroa
Sometimes, the most memorable moments are the ones you least anticipate. Our detour to French Farm and Akaroa, initially conceived as a convenient stop near Christchurch, unexpectedly blossomed into one of the true highlights of our South Island adventure.
I have found that the beauty of a South Island road trip lies in the freedom to explore charming smaller towns, breaking up longer drives. Our journey from Twizel to French Farm was no exception. We intentionally planned an overnight stop in Methven, a route that conveniently took us through Fairlie—home to the legendary Fairlie Bakehouse. Trust me on this: do not miss their pies. If it requires a slight detour, take it. Having sampled my fair share of pies in this lifetime, I can confidently say that Fairlie Bakehouse regins supreme.
French Farm, or more specifically, French Peak Vineyard, was a serendipitous online discovery – the allure of staying on a vineyard was too unique to pass up. We booked a two-night stay in their wagon, a charming accommodation with a few quirks. Upon entering, you're greeted by a compact shower and a composting toilet, perhaps not the conventional welcome you'd expect in a rustic wagon. Then there's the wood-fired hot tub, which sounds idyllic until you attempt to ignite it in 10-degree Celsius weather. Our initial three-hour struggle resulted in lukewarm water, as we hadn't realise the importance of the cover or the constant need to feed the embers. While a tad frustrating at the time, this comical episode certainly gave us city dwellers a newfound appreciation for the simple luxury of hot water on tap and a couple of valuable lessons in fire management!
The following morning, we had booked a tour that took us into the Marine Conservation Area, where we spotted a few pods of Hector's Dolphin, one of the world's smallest and rarest dolphin species, as well as some fur seals basking lazily on sun-drenched rocks. Inspired by this close encounter with nature, we spontaneously booked an evening tour to witness the adorable Pohatu penguins.
With some daylight hours to fill between our "National Geographic" inspired outings, we joined the bustling grape picking at French Peak Vineyard, which by sheer luck, coincided with the weekend we were there. Seasonal workers were already hard at work picking the Pinot Gris for 2025. My initial vision for Akaroa was one of leisurely relaxation at our accommodation, perhaps sipping wine and soaking in the ever-changing colours of the stunning backdrop. Instead, our day unfolded into a delightful whirlwind of unexpected activities, stretching all the way until 8 pm—a perfect example of how travel plans can delightfully deviate! Between adventures, we grabbed fresh pasta from Akaroa’s butcher—because nothing pairs better with vineyard views than carb-loaded comfort food.
By the time our sojourn in French Farm/Akaroa drew to a close, I felt an unexpected sense of connection to this unique place. Upon our arrival, I had curiously asked the vineyard owners (Scottish couple who had spent an awfully long time in Singapore prior) why they chose to settle down in Akaroa. Their simple reply: "It just felt right." Initially, I struggled to understand. Akaroa seemed somewhat remote, and New Zealand boasts countless other locations with equally breathtaking scenery. However, after engaging with some others who have chosen Akaroa as their home, hearing their fascinating stories and learning about some interesting community ties, the allure became clear.
If you're visiting Christchurch, I suggest you make the 1.5h drive to Akaroa and spend some time there, and maybe you'll find it amazing too. If Christchurch is on your itinerary, I wholeheartedly encourage you to make the scenic 1.5-hour drive to Akaroa and spend some time there. You might just find its unexpected magic captivating too.
Christchurch: Local Charm, Wildlife and (More) Wine Tours
Christchurch struck a chord with me, echoing the familiar feel of Adelaide, the city where I once studied. It's a city on the rise, boasting a decent level of development, charming cafes and restaurants, and a functional bus network (though contactless credit card payments haven't quite arrived yet!), all while retaining a certain quaintness.
For our Christchurch stay, my husband and I opted for a private room in an Airbnb rather than an entire place to ourselves. We felt this would be a wonderful opportunity to connect with a local, offering a more authentic perspective on the city. It turned out to be an excellent decision. Our host, Nicola, was a warm and welcoming lady with years of experience hosting travellers. Her daughter, Anna, was around our age, and their utterly adorable dog could melt even the most stoic of hearts.
And yes, you guessed it—we booked another wine tour , this time in the Waipara region. I know, I know, another one! But hear me out. Remember my "Travelling for X" series where I talked about travelling for food? Well, wine definitely falls into the "food" category for me, and I genuinely enjoy the experience of savouring it (always in moderation, of course!). Visiting cellar doors is a unique pleasure I can't indulge in back in Singapore, so I actively seek out such experiences during my travels. Besides, every wine region has its own distinct character, and every tour offers a fresh perspective!
If wildlife encounters pique your interest (and as you might have gathered, they became a significant theme of this trip), a visit to the Willowbank Wildlife Reserve is a must. We also managed to squeeze in a visit to the Antarctic Centre near the airport. This was a convenient and unexpectedly fun activity, as we had checked into the nearby Novotel in preparation for an early flight the next day. It's definitely worth checking out, especially if a full-fledged Antarctic cruise (with its hefty price tag!) isn't in your immediate plans.
Some Final Thoughts
As I look back on this incredible South Island journey, I'm often struck by the idea that the joy of travel is intrinsically linked to your mindset and the connections you forge along the way. Perhaps it's simply good fortune, but I've been incredibly lucky on many of my adventures to encounter truly wonderful people who leave a lasting imprint on my heart. Their kindness and stories often become as cherished as the breathtaking landscapes themselves.
