A Love Letter to the Kingdom of Bhutan
Let's kick things off with Bhutan – a place I knew close to nothing about till this February. I didn't know what the people looked like, what their language sounded like, what there was to see or do, or anything about Bhutanese cuisine. Call me ignorant, but my only unverified knowledge of the country was that they bottled their air to sell, and a guide has to follow me throughout. This put me off visiting the country, as I felt that I wouldn't have the freedom to explore on my own with the guide around.
However, when the opportunity arose for me to go on a familiarisation trip to Bhutan with some others in the travel industry, I jumped headfirst into it. I had only looked at the itinerary briefly and checked the weather on the 1Weather app before haphazardly throwing some layers into my backpack. As this trip was hosted by the COMO hotel group, we were put up in their property in Bangkok for a night before heading out bright and early the next day for the Drukair flight to Bhutan.
Note that all visitors would need a visa to enter Bhutan, except for visitors from India, who require a permit. While you can now book your trip independently, it is still highly recommended that you go through an accredited tour operator so that you're well taken care of throughout your stay (more on this later). For updated information on visiting Bhutan, you may refer to https://bhutan.travel/faqs.
Entering the Land of the Thunder Dragon
Flying into Bhutan from Bangkok via Bagdogra meant that on a clear day, you would be able to see Mt. Kanchenjunga, the third highest mountain in the world. Just make sure you are seated on the left side of the plane to get a good view of the mountain range. As much as I've read about the infamous tricky landing into Paro Airport, it was still thrilling to experience it firsthand, with buildings on both sides of the runway closer than I was used to. The airport itself is a work of art, incorporating traditional Bhutanese architecture into its design. While small in size, it had a money changer and 2 stores where you can buy your SIM card to begin your adventure in the land of the Thunder Dragon. I had purchased an e-sim from Airalo the day before, which worked fine too, except for some areas deep in the valley where the connection was weaker.
Once outside, our guides from COMO Uma Bhutan, Sangay and Kheydrub, welcomed our group with white silk scarves (Khata), as we hopped into our vehicles and began the short 1h drive to Thimpu, where we would visit the Simply Bhutan Museum for a glimpse into various aspects of traditional Bhutanese life. Because it was such a well-structured, interactive experience where visitors went from trying local alcohol to learning about its political systems and participating in song and dance, and even trying out archery, it definitely felt much easier to absorb the information, as opposed to a typical museum where you walk around at random. Then, I had my first taste of Bhutanese cuisine at a local restaurant. For reasons unbeknownst to me, I had expected the flavours to be simple and mild, so imagine my surprise when I took a spoonful of a deceptively innocent-looking creamy dish. Let’s just say my mouth did a double take.
After lunch, we embarked on a 4h drive along winding mountain roads towards Punakha, making a stop at the famous Dochula Pass mid-journey. As they say in Bhutan - the mountains decide the weather - so if you're lucky, you'll be able to see the Himalayan range, and Gangkar Puensem, the tallest unclimbed mountain in the world at 7,158 meters. You'll also find the 108 stupas in honour of the valiant fourth king and his soldiers who perished during the battle against Assamese insurgents in 2003. I felt a little sick towards the last hour of the drive, and was glad to have finally arrived at COMO Uma Punakha, where we would rest up for the night.
Hiking Khamsum Yulley Namgyal Chorten | Rafting to Lunch | The Punakha Dzong and Suspension Bridge
The second day started with a gentle 45-minute hike, starting from a footbridge in a small village, through fields of rice, potatoes, and mustard flowers up to Khamsum Yulley Namgyal Chorten, a temple built to ward off negative forces and to spread peace and harmony for all living beings. Even if you don't connect with the shrine's religious purpose, the hike itself offers a moment of serenity and a chance to disconnect.
In the temple, you will see statues and murals of wrathful deities directed at destroying hostile forces. Once you ascend to the rooftop, you are treated to a panoramic view of the Punakha Valley. Taking in the lovely scenery, I noticed the meandering river and its relatively calm, turquoise waters. I thought, 'I wish I could swim in that.'. As it turns out, a fellow travel agent had the same intrusive thought. One thing led to another, and soon our guides had arranged for us to raft down what I now know as the Mo Chhu River (Female River). Why drive 30 minutes to lunch by the river, when you can float there? This detour wouldn't have been possible if not for our brilliant guides who created magic for us on the fly. Moral of the story? Travel with a guide, and be curious.
It is at this point that I would urge more people to visit Bhutan in February. While December to February is considered the off-peak season, don't let the cooler temperatures deter you. Bhutan's diverse topography means you'll find pleasant, temperate weather in the lower valleys, making it ideal for hiking and exploring. Plus, you'll get to enjoy slightly cheaper room rates and fewer crowds.
Ok, back to lunch. We had a picnic setup overlooking the river, and food was buffet-style local Bhutanese food, which included a staple of nutty red rice, stir-fried beef, momos, and their national dish – Emma Datshi (remember that spicy surprise from day one?), amongst other dishes I cannot now remember as I was very, very hungry. I also realised that with every meal came this chilli paste/condiment called Ezay, and it became my personal culinary quest to sample different versions of it throughout my meals in Bhutan.
Next up was Punakha Dzong, a fortified monastery with three courtyards and an important relic. Renowned for its stunning architecture with intricate woodwork, it is also where significant events like royal coronations take place. We were lucky to catch the monks rehearsing their dances for the annual Punakha festival. We then visited the nearby suspension bridge, which is quite impressive at 190 meters long (according to my guide, who says that Google is inaccurate). Ever since my visit to the Akashi Kaikyo Bridge and its museum in Kobe, I've been amazed by the sheer ingenuity required to build structures that can withstand such immense forces and harsh conditions, all through the elegant interplay of cables and tension. Suspension bridges are truly engineering marvels that solve a very real problem!
Heading to Paro | Hiking the Tiger's Nest | A Farmhouse Experience
Day three was a relaxing day, a peaceful prelude to our Tiger's Nest hike the next day. We made our way back to Paro the same way we came, stopping at a lively farmers market where we bought some local red rice and chilli flakes in an attempt to recreate a little taste of Bhutan back home. Later, we visited a nondescript textile shop and watched in awe as local women wove intricate designs from memory. Oh Bhutan, you had my stomach, now you have my artistic heart.
Day four began with an early jolt – 6:30 am – as we tackled the legendary Tiger's Nest hike. Our mission: conquer the climb before the midday heat. Our guide and driver led the way, ensuring we were well-stocked with hydration and mid-hike fuel, including a comforting ginger tea break. As a serial walker and fair-weather hiker, I found the initial ascent a solid workout, but manageable. Just make sure to dress in layers, especially in Winter, as you'd heat up pretty quickly and would have to shed the layers despite the chilly morning.
About 2 hours into the hike, the first viewpoint opened up, revealing the Tiger's Nest (Paro Taktsang) in all its glory. There it was, that postcard-perfect scene, the temple seemingly suspended in mid-air. The clear morning light, a gift from the mountains, painted the temple in a golden glow, the intricate details shimmering under the sun's gentle touch. Then I remembered what the General Manager at COMO Uma Paro had told us the night before: "Bhutan is not a place where you get to know from photos. You have to see it to believe it" His words couldn't have rung more true then.
We soldiered on down the stairs past a waterfall, and up again. Leaving our belongings in the provided lockers, as required, we followed Kheydrub, our guide, into the Tiger's Nest complex. We saw the eight manifestations of Guru Rinpoche, the revered patron saint who ushered Vajrayana Buddhism into Bhutan during the 8th century. We paused, closing our eyes in quiet meditation. Later, we lit butter lamps, a small offering in a place of profound spirituality.
The trek down from Tiger's Nest was met with an unexpected reward: a farmhouse lunch that felt like a warm embrace. We settled into the living room, a circle of guests sharing dishes laid out on the floor. The moment the freshly pounded Ezay chili paste arrived, I knew it would be special. The afternoon flowed with laughter, music, and the comforting potency of homemade Ara. This wasn't just a meal; it was an experience, a testament to the owner's passion, a former Amann hotel professional, and a moment I still look back on fondly.
Back at COMO Uma Paro, we put Kheydrub and our drivers to the test, demanding an impromptu archery masterclass. Before long, arrows were finding their mark from a respectable 20 to 30 meters and every hit was met with a song and dance, and some fooling around. I loved how joy was woven into all these little moments and I was grateful that my brief stay had ended on such a high note.
A Farewell?
A gentle sadness settled in as I prepared to leave. How could four days hold such a depth of feeling? This journey echoed the pure joy of my early solo travels in rural Japan, where the warmth of the people transformed a picturesque landscape into a truly unforgettable experience. Without them, it would have been merely a beautiful place with stunning mountains. It's the shared experiences and the quiet strength of human connections that resonated with me then and continue to inspire me now. So, thank you, Bhutan, for allowing me to rediscover that feeling. I look forward to meeting you again.
